Step 1 - Having a quick look see
When
you open up the bonnet you will see something pretty similar to this.
My Passat is a UK 2001 B5.5 so if yours isn't there are bound to be some
slight differences but I can't imagine anything would be greatly different
in a B5 series passat.
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Step 2 - Removing the seal
The
first thing you need to do is remove the seal that runs around the edge
of the engine to remove the battery cover. The rubber seal just pulls
off and the cover just slides out by pulling it towards the front of
the car. You should be left with something similar to the image below.
Note:
The B5 (2000 and older) does not have a cover over the battery. So don't panic. It's not missing. |
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Step 3 - Whats causing the leak ?
This
is a close up of the pollen
filter which incidentally needs changed, but that's a job for another
day. As you can see there is a line of sludge along the route the
water run off should be taking. Over time its this sludge that blocks
the drain holes. If your car dosen't have this sludge the drain holes
could still be blocked. Might be worth looking into it anyway.
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Step 4 - Getting at the drain holes, Removing
the battery
There
are two drain holes and to get to them we need to remove the battery
and the shelf it sits on, don't be frightened, its easy really. First
off the battery needs to be removed using your trusty 10mm spanner mentioned
earlier.
Note: Remove the negative cable (black) terminal first. |
Once
you have removed both the cables from the battery you will be faced with
this which clamps the battery in place. |
Using
a 14mm socket remove the bolt and clamp which just lifts off. |
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Wouldn't
life be nice and simple if the battery just lifted out at this point. Well
life isn't and it doesn't :) This little hose at the right a hand side
for run off from the battery just pulls out. |
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Step 5 - Removing the cable
The
cable marked here needs to be unclipped from the body of the car to allow
you to remove the battery.
If you know what this cable is called,
can you let me know :) |
There
are metal clips that slide off if you pull them towards the front of the
car.
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2... |
3... |
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Step 6 - Lifting the battery out
The
shelf the battery sits on has a lip at the right hand side which, together
with the clamp we removed earlier hold the battery in place. The battery
needs to be slid to the left so it clears this lip then it simply lifts
out. Remember though its bloody heavy and contains acid and other nasty
stuff. Modern batteries are sealed but its best to keep it level and
treat it with a little respect just in case.
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The
removed battery and clamp. Now its time to take out the shelf the battery
was sitting. Here is the battery sitting on my drive, by this point I'm quite proud of myself... and
thats the hardest bit done. |
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Step 7 - Remove the battery tray
Now
the shelf the battery was sitting on needs to be removed. It is held
in place with two nuts and a bolt. This image shows the top left of the
shelf with the nut removed. This one nut holds the alarm sounder (that's
what it looks like to me anyway) in place as well as securing the shelf
to the body. The alarm sounder and the shelf slot together so they have
to be unslotted. With all the fixings removed and the alarm sounder out
of the way the shelf just lifts out.
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Ta
da, the shelf is out. You can unclip and remove the alarm sounder if you
want, I just didn't want to risk getting the electrical contacts dirty
with all the dirt and sludge that was down there. |
The
battery shelf and fixings sitting in the drive. |
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Step 8 - Unblocking the drain holes
So
that's the hard bit done, your car should now look something like this.
The two drain holes are circled. They are about 2" across and have
a rubber edging. Its easier to see if you look at the drain hole closest
to you in the picture. If you poke your finger in you will feel a little
rubber skirt. Basically its this little rubber skirt that causes the
drain holes to become blocked and in turn flood the interior of the car.
I have read about people removing these rubber skirts. There is logic behind
this, if there is no skirt then there not possibility of it becoming blocked.
I consulted a friend of mine (you know who you are you big ginger professor of
thermo dynamics you) and found out that these skirts are there to stop road
spray and other things coming up through the holes. As you can see I left mine
in place but the choice is yours.
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The
big black thing you can see at the top left is the break master cylinder
and under this you can see the second drain hole which is very gunked up
with sludge. |
All
clean and unblocked. To clear the blockage all you need to do is give it
a quick poke and a wipe with a cloth and the gunk is all gone. When you
poke the blockage through it just ends up on your driveway. I pushed a
little too hard and the rubber surrounding and skirt went through the hole.
Its a pain to get it back up through the hole and reattach so be nice and
gentle, treat your car as you would a lovely lady :) |
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Step 9 - Sticking it all back together
So
with everything de-gunked its time to put everything back together. When
reconnecting the battery shelf, remember to slot the alarm sounder on the bolt after
the shelf is in place or it wont slot together properly.
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Slide
the battery in place so that its hard up against the lip at the right hand
side of the shelf. |
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Reattach
the clamp at the left hand side. |
Before
you replace the clip on cable shown here you need to make sure the cables
you are going to attach to the battery are tucked in this space as shown
here. They wont slot through with the larger cable clipped in place. |
When
clipping the cable in place its exactly the same as removing it. |
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The
battery needs to be reconnected using the good old 10mm spanner. |
Re
attach the battery run off hose at the right a hand side and check that
the other end is pointing towards the newly unblocked drain hole.
Now you can replace the battery cover, the large bit of
plastic that covers the area you have been working on.
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Step 10 - Replace the seal
Nearly
done, the final job to do in the engine compartment is to replace the
seal around the engine and battery cover. Start at a corner and make
sure that the rubber is pushed in tight. Also check that the battery
cover is slotted correctly into the seal. Work your way round pushing
it on firmly. Mine squeaked like a fat man on leather sofa, so if you
hear that your doing it right.
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Replacing
the seal starting in the top left corner. |
The
seal that runs around the engine slots together at two points the left
and right, make sure that these are properly slotted together. |
Seal
in place and joined together.
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Now
your car should be back together in one piece and you should feel quite
proud of yourself and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. |
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Step 11 - Drying out
All
that remains is to whip out the hair dryer and get rid of the wet spot.
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The offending dirt will be sitting on the driveway, its amazing
that this little lump of muck no bigger than a 10p could end up costing
so
much
in repairs. I recommend you kick it about a bit, I ran over it with the
car a few times.... it made me feel a little better.